Transfer case skid: 32RH transmission support bracket orientation

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[IslandTJ]

Well my "no body lift" 0.25" UCF transfer case skid came in this past Monday. First off, I was really impressed with the stoutness and quality of the skid. Over the next weekdays, I spent my evenings after work, priming and painting the skid for a weekend install.

When the weekend finally came, I was so exited to remove my OEM skid that I forgot and didn't take note of the orientation of the transmission support bracket that is mounted on the skid. As such, I installed the bracket with the higher side towards the front and the lower side to the rear (the bracket is sloping downwards to the rear).

When I finally finished installing the skid, I took the Jeep on a test drive and felt vibes between 15-30 mph, despite my 1" MML. To remedy, I began installing one washer at a time, until the vibes disappeared. Six washers ultimately did the trick, lowering the skid by 0.75". At the end of the day, I am still very happy with the product and the protection it will give me.

I am still wondering if I installed the transmission support bracket correctly. Would someone chime in and let me know if I have the bracket in correctly i.e. sloping towards the rear, or do I need to take down the skid and reverse the bracket on the skid to where it is sloping towards the front (low side towards the front and high side towards the rear).

  Mahalo .

[Lupinsea]

From what I know it is supposed to slope with the high-side in the front to the low-side in the rear.  This was the way my transmission mount was sloped.

It's a bummer you had to put in that many washers for your skid.  Do you have a SYE / CV driveshaft?

FWIW, I eventually fabricated my own transmission mounting plate.  The OEM one was at too steep of an angle and causing the rubber isolator to fold over on itself (and no, I couldn't simply reverse it).  Eventually the rubber-on-rubber rubbing developed a squeek that drove me insane because I couldn't locate it for the longest time.  My new mount reduces the isolator angle eliminating the cause of the squeek.

Take note, however, that this probably had something to do with the skid I was using:  A Go-Fer-It skid.  While crude the Go-Fer-It was one of the higher clearance skids out there, picking up nearly 3" of extra ground clearance. 

[IslandTJ]

Mahalo Jay,

Nope, keeping in line with my budget build, I do not have a SYE and double CV shaft; hence, my need for a transfer case drop. The new UCF skid is higher than the OEM skid by 1.5".  So in essence, although I dropped 0.75", I still net 0.75" in clearance over stock.  Budget is tight with the wife and kids, so spending $$$ for a SYE kit, longer drive shaft and adjustable rear upper control arms (perhaps $600) -  compared to the minimal expense for the longer bolts and washers (under $15), I can deal with the loss in clearance, as opposed to the loss in dollars.  Well at least for now...

[Lupinsea]

Ah, gotcha.

I know how it goes with budget priorities.  Let's just say that it was a good thing I got my Jeep built-up before I got married.     There are funds for the Jeep and additional funds can be made available but it takes longer planning and some negotiation.

If you got rid of the vibes with the washers then hold off on the SYE / CV / Adj. UCAs.

Back when I priced out a belly-up skid conversion I think it came out to about $1100+ if one were to really watch their budget like a hawk.  And the skid plate was about maybe 1/4 of that cost.  The rest of it was in the SYE / CV, adjustable UCAs, exhaust work, BL / MML, etc.  Oh, and I eventually needed to replace my OEM rear trackbar with an adjustable to compensate for the rotated pinion angle on the rear axle.

[dwkolb1]

I think I might try it all w/no MML and no TC skid washers. Driveshaft joints on a non-CV type shaft need to be as equal-angled as possible... and unless whatever lift/shox u have would allow too much driveshaft joint bind at full droop... I have 2.5" +/- on my YJ, no TC drop, no MML, and no vibes.

[Lupinsea]

For TJ's the rule of thumb is that you can "typically" lift the rig 2" without much risk of significant vibes.  Any vibes you have at that height can be dealt with by slipping some washers between the t-case skid and frame.  For my 2" BB I originally installed I needed 1/4" worth of stacked washers and my vibes were gone.  Cheap and easy.

The 2-3" lift range is a bit more iffy.  Most lift kits on the market will have t-case skid spacers (glorified stacks of washers) as a precaution and recommend their installation.  Some guys I've read posts from have said they've installed 3" of lift with no vibes but I think they're in the minority.  Most with that much lift have vibe issues.

And of course, beyond 3" you're almost certain to need the SYE / CV driveshaft due to the working angle of the rear driveshaft (given that it is so short on the SWB Jeeps.

How this relates to the t-case skid plate is as follows:

Whether you raise the t-case skid ~2" or install a 2" lift kit . . . . the u-joint's don't really care.  From their perspective the effect is the same.  Both changes increase the working angle of the u-joints the same amount.

So, a stock TJ can have a 2-ish" belly-up skid plate installed.

Or

You can install a 2" lift.

But if you combine the two it greatly exacerbates the working angle problem on the driveshaft.  After all:  2" lift + 2" raised t-case skid = 4" equivalent lift as far as the u-joints are concerned.  And at that you've crossed the 3"+ lift threshold that usually necessitates a SYE / CV install.



Where the BL / MML come in is that to shove the t-case up under the rig more sometimes you need to make more room.  A 1" BL does that.  And the MML is usually a good companion to the MML because you don't need to modify the fan shrowd AND it helps lower the output shaft of the t-case (which helps reduce working angles on the u-joints slightly).  BL have other benefits for tucking up the rear gas tank skid plate, too, so that you can gain another 1" of rear departure angle ground clearance for free.

[kizer]

I lifted my Jeep 3.5 inches, but with RE coils they usually net closer to 4+ plus I added a Belly Up. So I ideally went from a 3.5 inch lift to nearly 6 inches of angle on my Transfercase and rear shaft.

I had no choice to go with a SYE and a CV style shaft. I as well already had a body lift and a Motor Mount lift. When I had just the lift the MML and body lift along with some washers seemed to tame my vibes to a degree.

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