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3-Row CSF Radiator replacement
I was on vacation for a week and as luck would have it I went out into the garage and there was a small puddle of water under the TJ. Yep it was Anti-freeze. I decided it was time replace the radiator opposed to patching it. I called around to all my local shops and it appeared I could buy an all metal replacement cheaper than I could buy a factory replacement. Dirk at DPG Offroad was a great guy to work with and he sold me a CFS Heavy Duty 3-Row all metal for less than I could by a factory radiator. What could be better?

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Submitted by kizer on 11/11/05

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Changing your own Jeep oil
I often hear from many people I need to take my car in and get my oil changed. Then of course I always snicker and they often say You change your own? I always replay yes. Its one of the easiest things to perform on a vehicle. Dont get me wrong I changed my parents Ford Focus Mach4 and honestly after reaching up behind the dash to pull the oil filter I told my dad. "Keep paying for it, your getting your moneys worth." Needless to say that vehilcle was a pain in the butt, howeve with all the room under the hood with a Jeep its rather simple.

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Submitted by kizer on 12/14/05

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'84-'85 Cherokee 2.5L Engine Diagnosis
I just spent 6 weeks pursuing a rough idle problem with my '84 Cherokee. (2.5L engine, 100k miles)

This might be useful to someone else so here's the story.

1. Found the brake vacuum booster leaking - replaced. Still have the problem. (Symptom was lowering vacuum while holding brake pedal depressed.)
2. Checked the intake manifold bolts tight - they needed a bit of a tweak. (Actually, one stud was broken. Replaced, retorqued.) Idle still a problem.
3. Noticed that the usual "clack" when moving throttle off of idle was missing.

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 06/22/04 Edited 04/14/05

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10 Steps to Passing Any Smog Test
Have an engine that is completely stock and in good running condition. If your engine isn’t stone stock, making it look stock is a huge advantage. A visually clean and leak-free engine will beat a neglected-looking oil-leaker every time.

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Submitted by themajor on 06/19/04 Edited 06/20/04

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1971 304-360 AMC V-8 Engine Torque Specifications
Torque specs for 1971 304 and 360 AMC V8 engines

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 09/13/04

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1981 4.2L Engine Torque Specifications
Torque specifications for the 1981 Jeep 4.2 Liter six cylinder inline engine. Contains the torque specs for all the bolts, fasteners, nuts, etc attached to the engine.

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 09/09/04

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1991-1995 Jeep Wrangler (YJ) Trouble Codes
Trouble codes for the 1991-1995 Jeep Wrangler (YJ)

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/26/05

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1999 2.5L Engine Torque Specifications
Torque specifications for the 1999 Jeep 2.5 Liter four cylinder engine. Contain the torque specs for all the bolts, fasteners, nuts, etc for everything attached to the engine.

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 09/02/04 Edited 09/04/04

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1999 4.0L Engine Torque Specifications
Torque specifications for the 1999 Jeep 4.0 Liter six cylinder inline engine. Contain the torque specs for all the bolts, fasteners, nuts, etc for everything attached to the engine.

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 09/04/04

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1999 4.7L Engine Torque Specifications
Torque specifications for the 1999 Jeep 4.7 Liter engine from the 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Factory Service Manual (FSM)

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 09/09/04

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2.5L Engine Performance Tips
Making a 4 cylinder Jeep work for you is a possibility. These little motors are reliable and decent on fuel. They run forever and require little maintenance. The only complaint most owners have is a lack of power. Rowing the transmission through the gears is often the only way to keep up with freeway traffic on any kind of hills. So what choices do you have for more power?

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 06/22/04

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2.5L to 4.0L Engine and Transmission Swap
The following article details a conversion performed on my ’94 4cyl. YJ during the summer of ’97. The donor vehicle was a ’92 YJ with the 4.0L HO motor and AX15. All of the notes will be valid for ’92 - ’95 YJs, and most of the content is applicable down through ’87 and up through the TJs. It is meant to provide a good explanation of what to expect, but falls short of being a step by step guide. This was my first engine swap at the time so I’ll try to write it such that most howler monkeys can at least be prepared to tackle it – if I can do it, you prolly can. I’m going to also assume you have a repair manual and experience of some kind for the detail work. I’ll apologize for the lack of good pictures. If you prefer, there is also a quick and dirty "things to consider" at the bottom of this article that should be reviewed if you are serious about the swap anyway.

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Submitted by Code3TJ on 06/25/04

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3 Row Radiator Install
3 Row Radiator Install

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Submitted by kizer on 12/15/03

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4.0 and 280lbft aren't enough
The torque curve of the engine in stock form was already broad and flat. The addition of some simple bolt-on performance modifications has increased torque throughout the rev range, particularly at higher revs.

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Submitted by kizer on 10/25/03 Edited 01/07/04

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