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Headlights, Tailights, Floodlights, there are a lot more trust me.

1000 Watt Power Inverter Wiring
You know how some projects start with a simple purchase at your local warehouse store or appliance outlet. This project reminds me of the 50” big screen that we purchased many years ago that prompted the building of a family room because the living room was too small for the TV. Well this project isn’t likely be get that extreme…..yet.

It all started at one of those yaga monster warehouse stores where on one of the end caps was a 1000-watt power inverter. That’s 1000 watts of continuous power, not a surge of 1000 watts for a half second before the overload kicks the unit off. My eyes got big when we looked up at the price tag of less then seventy dollars. Before the brain ever had a chance to consider the balance in the checking account that inverter was in my shopping cart and on its way to its new home.

After reading the installation requirements we knew we had a project on our hands. The manufacturer was recommending a minimum of 2 gauge wire, no longer then 5 feet

Domain: http://www.nagca.com
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Submitted by kizer on 12/22/03 Edited 04/14/05

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1967 and Earlier(?) Ignition Circuit Diagram
An ignition circuit wiring diagram based on the 1967 CJ but may be applicable to earlier models as well.

Domain: http://www.earlycj5.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 06/20/04

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24 Volt from 12 Volt Conversion
The military waterproof ignition system works well as far as providing spark when it is wet. It has a slight problem when starting of the engine. After installing this system, the starting problem just went away.
The distributor was designed to operate on a 24 volt electrical system. This system provides 24-28 volts during run. Just like the 12 volt systems provide 12-14 volts.
Normal operation of the 24 volt waterproof system on 12-14 volts is fine. In fact the current through the points is reduced and therefore they should last longer than in 24 volt operation.

Domain: http://mightymo.org
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/11/04

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80 to 120 Amp relay system
Do you have a high amp drawing device in your rig like a Tarus fan mod, but can't find a relay at a reasonable price? Why not build your own system with cheap available parts. Plucked from a thread on jeepsunlimited forum.

Circuit layouts and a in depth discussion. The thread says for TJ's only, but I think its because the author is annoyed that there isn't a forum to post to all Jeep models.

Domain: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com
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Submitted by kizer on 04/07/04

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Add-A-Circuit
Submitted by: MoabJeeper Magazine

For anyone needing to add a hot power line for all those extras such as CB Radio etc. here is an easy & proffesional looking solution.

Domain: http://www.moabjeeper.com
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Submitted by Moab Man on 01/06/05

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Aftermarket Cruise Control Install
Install aftermarket cruise control on your YJ or TJ

Domain: http://www.jedi.com
Rating: 4 (4/5)
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 06/19/04

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Automotive Relays
Relays are widely used in electrical applications where one circuit is to be energized or turned "on" by the presence of a voltage, provided by another circuit. An example of this is when an automotive radio sends out a triggering voltage to turn on an external amplifier or activate a motorized antenna. Anywhere a switch can go in a circuit, a relay can replace it, (as long as there is a triggering voltage available to activate it). The switch in a relay is more often called a solenoid. A solenoids is like a piston that pushes outward when energized with electricity. This push mechanically trips the switch in the relay, completing circuit and allowing the switched voltage output.

Domain: http://www.rps4wd.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/21/04

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Aux Battery with isolator
I installed the aux backup battery in the small cabinet behind the driver seat. Seems like a perfect place for it, and the battery I picked fits perfectly in there!

The battery is an Odyssey model PC925 which is more than capable of starting the 4.3L engine. It can actually be used as the main battery. It is a fully sealed, dry-cell, deep-cycle battery. The isolator/combiner I use is made by Hellroaring. It is a very NICE unit. The way I have it hooked up, it keeps the aux battery charged all the time but never lets it drain, unless I flip the switch, in which case it kicks in. There is an LED near the switch that tells me when that battery is being charged.

I have used it several times, let the main battery drain all the way, and it has worked great. Starts the truck right up.

The whole thing was easy to install. There are several different ways to do it. I installed it just like their "4x4" recommended setup. In this method, a THICK wire comes from the starter terminal (or the main battery +) to the isolator. A thick wire goes from the isolator to the backup battery. You ground the backup battery to a good place and also wire up a few other wires for the isolator (for the remote switch, led, and a ground). There is also a resistor and a diode that go on the unit but their instructions are very clear and it comes will all the parts.

Domain: http://home.earthlink.net
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Submitted by kizer on 08/07/04

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BATTERIES--AND OTHER ELECTRIC STUFF
This starts with the basics then gradually gets more advanced, with more extensive tests and interpretations. Some topics are mentioned several times, usually with more details and explanation, sometimes for emphasis

Domain: http://www.phrannie.org
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Submitted by themajor on 06/25/04

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Battery Cable Size
Battery Cable Size
(As a function of current and length)
Mimimum cable size to use (AWG)

Domain: http://www.e-marine-inc.com
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Submitted by themajor on 01/12/05

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Blower Motor Control Switch Replacement
There are two common reasons that your blower motor will not run when in fact the motor has nothing wrong with it. The blower switch and blower resistor block are frequent failures. Many forums have endless posts saying "Mine doesn't work at high speed", "Mine only works at high speed", "Mine works in low and high speed only, but...", etc.

Domain: http://www.gotjeep.net
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Submitted by kizer on 12/18/05

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CJ-2A Dual Battery Install
The original location for the battery on CJ-2As is on the passenger side fender. This works fine with the 134 I4 "Go Devil" engine, but it gets pretty tight with a V8 or V6 engine. I also wanted to cut out the fenders as much as possible to keep the engine cool, so I didn't want to mount the battery or batteries on the fenders. The military Willys' have an extra battery under the cowl (behind the passenger side dash), but I wanted to put a heater in this area. I finally decided behind the rear axle would be the best place for the batteries. Obviously, if the batteries were going behind the rear axle, they would need some protection. I got out the tape measure and discovered a CJ-7 gas tank skid plate would fit back there and, with some chopping, be level with the bottom of the rear bumper.

Domain: http://www.4x4wire.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/27/04

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CJ-3B Alternator Install
The Jeep's wiring harness and alternators are a lot more versatile than most people realize. Although the stock CJ-3B uses a generator, all that nearly any alternator system needs to function is a charge indicator light as it is wired in the later CJ-3B. A "one wire" alternator is the way to go in pre-1956 Jeeps that are equipped with an ammeter instead of the indicator lamp. The additional output current that a modern alternator can provide as compared to a generator or an old alternator is the best reason for making this change to a Jeep, and it may be required if you are converting to a newer engine.

Domain: http://www.film.queensu.ca
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/19/04

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CJ-7 Wiring Harness on a CJ-2A
Wiring up a Willys CJ-2A is no simple matter. I had two stock wiring harnesses and both were beyond recovery. The cloth insulation on the wires just doesn't last 50 years or more. I recently parted out a rolled '77 CJ-7, so I decided to use the wiring harness from the CJ-7 on the Willys. It worked pretty well and saved lots of time and money.

Domain: http://www.4x4wire.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/27/04

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