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Dana 44 Flat Top Knuckle and High Steer info.
Dana 44 flat top knuckle high steering and reference info Domain: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 09/30/04
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Dana 44 Flat Top Knuckle and High Steer info.
What is a flat top knuckle?
A flattop knuckle is a cast knuckle that is designed for a steering arm to be attached to. It is found on a Dana 44 straight drive axle with ball-joints, see pictures below. This article will refer to only flat top knuckles that came from the factory with both sides as a flat top, unless noted.
Domain: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com
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Submitted by themajor on 02/27/05
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Dana 44 Warn Full Floater Axle Install
Install a Warn full floater on a CJ5 Dana 44 19 spline axle Domain: http://www.earlycj5.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 06/20/04
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DANA 60 conversion
The Binder Bunch has learned through years of four wheeling that if you are going to run 35"& or taller tires you will eventually break the 44 axles, ring & pinion, and differential. Our solution was to install a dana 60 in the rear of our Scouts. Our goal was to maintain build a bullet proof rear end and keep the stock 5-lug configuration. Domain: http://www.off-road.com
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Submitted by kizer on 10/25/03 Edited
10/25/03
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Dana 60 High Steering
This is my high steering setup on my front Dana 60. For this setup I am running the tie rod behind the front axle. I am doing this to avoid the pitman arm and drag link, since I have moved my front axle forward several inches.
First thing is to get all the parts that I will need.
For the High Steering Arms I contacted Tim Shaker at Shakerbuilt. I got one single arm and one double arm.
Here is what you get with the single arm from Tim for $100. Domain: http://www.jeepgod.net
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Submitted by kizer on 02/04/04
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DANA 60-2 Semi-Floater Rear Cut Down 3"
Well I have finally had some time to get to the rear axle of mine and address its problems. First off it is 3 inches wider than my front axle and with that the differential was also offset to the passenger side. This axle came out of a 1973 Jeep J-10, that had a 3/4 ton upgrade from the factory, so what they did was put a dana 60, semi-floater with 5 on 5 and half bolt pattern, in place of the rear d44. They offset the differential so they could use different transmission and transfer case options in the same chassis. With the truck being as long as it was they could get away with this with no significant problems.
Unfortunately, with me installing this into a much shorter CJ-7, I ran into the problem of blowing through u-joints like it was cool. Just to many angles on it. Now all I had to do was cut down the housing 3", so it was off to the hobby shop. Domain: http://www.jeepgod.net
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 08/04/04
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Dana Light Axle Manual
The Dana light axle manual with information, torque specs and part numbers for Dana 30, 35, 35c, 44, 60 and 70 axles. Requires Adobe reader Domain: http://jeephorizons.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 08/27/04
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Dana Spicer Grand Cherokee WJ 44-4 Service Manual
The Dana Spicer service manual for the WJ Dana 44. Includes information on dissasembly, inspection, reassembly, and specifications Domain: http://www2.dana.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 10/07/04
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Detroit EZ Locker Installation
We were looking for some extra traction on the '99 Wrangler, so we went with Detroit's EZ Locker. The decision was made much easier since we got the locker used and, well really cheap! This installation was fairly straightforward for the mechanically inclined. If you don't know how to find the open end of a combination wrench, you should probably have a pro install your locker for you.
This should serve as an outline of the procedures WE followed (and some tips), not as a substitute for reading the instructions that came with your locker! The procedures here apply to a Dana 35-c axle, and will be different for other model axles. Basic preparation includes jacking up and supporting the vehicle and axle with suitable jackstands, placing the transmission in neutral (only after chocking the front wheels!), and removing the rear wheels. Domain: http://myjeeprocks.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 08/07/04 Edited
08/07/04
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Diagnosing Drivetrain Noise
Many things can go wrong inside a differential. Although the hints are often subtle, most impending failures give fair warning in the form of noise. Domain: http://www.4x4now.com
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Submitted by jeeperchris on 10/17/03 Edited
11/17/03
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Diff Types for your Cherokee
In most cases, Jeeps come from the factory with what are called open or standard differentials. These units perform the best for the most people and are cheap to produce. They work by allowing the wheels on each end of an axle to travel at different speeds, making for much easier cornering and low tire wear. Power is actually only directed to one tire at any given time through the use of GEARS in the center of the differential unit. What this means is that technically most “4X4s” are actually 2wd with available power traveling to one tire in the front and one tire in the rear. The only problem with the stock arrangement is that under all circumstances the power coming from the driveshaft goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction. Think of water traveling downhill, it will always take the path of least resistance. This is most likely to be a problem under more extreme conditions such as when the suspension is “crossed up” with two wheels off the ground (or nearly off the ground) at opposite corners of the vehicle. What happens next is the wheelers worst nightmare, forward motion is lost as your tires dangle helplessly off the ground spinning. There are times when this can be dangerous. For example, losing forward motion on a large hill climb can force you to back down, always a tense moment, as control is easily lost when backing down a hill. Those are the drawbacks to open differentials.
The first step up from the standard differentials are what’s called a limited slip diff. (sometimes called a posi-traction, coined by Chevy in the 60’s for their own limited slip diffs). These units can be either factory installed (like the Jeep/Dana Tracloc) or you can buy and install aftermarket units. Limited slip differentials get their name from what they’re supposed to do, limit slip between two wheels on a single axle providing more traction by sending power to both wheels instead of just one, yet they are also designed to allow slippage between those same two wheels when negotiating a turn. This is absolutely necessary for decent handling and tire wear, but there are some disadvantages as well.
The downfall of the limited slip comes at the extreme end of the four-wheeling spectrum. These units will fail to provide additional traction when wheels are lifted off the ground and resistance at one wheel is vastly greater than the other. In these situations once again you will be left in one place with your wheels spinning helplessly in the air, forward motion stopped. ,In addition, most limited slips use clutches inside the differential assembly that limit slip, as those clutches wear the differentials ability to stop “slip” decreases substantially from new. In turn, once this wear begins to happen the diff will act much as an open diff does and only send power to the tire with the least resistance. Jeep factory Trac-loc diffs are notorious for this kind of accelerated wear and will often be worn out in less than 40K miles. The best thing about limited slip diffs is that they have little or no effect on the everyday driving character of your Jeep except in icy conditions where slipping sideways on a sideslope can be a problem if both rear wheels spin and traction is completely lost. Typically open diffs won’t do this as only one tire spins on each axle and the other stopped tire acts as an anchor keeping the vehicle from sliding sideways.
The last type of differential option available to the Cherokee owner is what is termed a locking diff, or locker as it’s often called. Jeep does not offer this type of diff as an option on any of it’s vehicles from the factory and I don’t believe they ever have. Full locking differentials can be your best friend or your worst enemy depending on the situation . You see, these units do as their name implies and they are able to get power to both wheels on the same axle regardless of whether one, both, or neither of those wheels are touching the ground. Using special interlocking spring loaded dog clutches (imagine your fingers locking together to lock your hands) allows the wheels to turn at different speeds when negotiating a turn on the road and then lock together when power is applied forcing the two wheels to operate together for maximum traction in rough terrain.
The advantage is obvious, in low traction situations where wheels are being lifted off the ground or one side of the Jeep is on a very slippery surface, such as mud or snow, the other tires with weight and traction will continue to pull you through the trouble spot.. Most of the locking differentials on the market are very torque sensitive making them extremely positive in their locking action. What this means is you get stuck less and the diffs make you look like a hero at your favorite wheeling spot.
Unfortunately , there is no free lunch, these diffs have some disadvantages also. First the very nature of the locking action creates a diff that can be noisy and somewhat abrupt. Second, the driving feel of your Jeep will change with an automatic locking diff, corners will have to be taken slower and smoother when driving around town as the differential locks and unlocks in the corners, unsettling the tail of the Jeep a bit and making the it feel less planted ( Next issue I will get into manual locking diffs like the ARB and new Powertrax manual locker soon to be on the market, and yes these are the best of both worlds, though beyond most peoples price range). This is mainly something you have to get used to more than it is a problem. Also driving in icy conditions will cause sideslip if all wheels are allowed to spin causing the Jeep to be harder to control in this situation. Another concern most people don’t think about when considering installing locking diffs is they will allow your vehicle to travel into much more difficult terrain. It’s very easy to make the Jeep more capable than your own driving skills should allow, for this reason I don’t recommend lockers to novice off-road drivers.
Finally, there is the question of wear and potential breakage being “caused by the locker”. The possibility of breaking parts can go up as you have the ability to send 100% of all available power to a single tire with no weak traction links in the chain. However, in my experience (I run a Lockright in the rear, my front diff is welded shut) breaking parts may actually be harder to do if you prefer finesse over speed. With a locker replacing one of your factory open differentials you will be able to crawl over obstacles that would have required speed and momentum before, going slower usually reduces the chance of breakage.
In closing this month, I hope you understand the pros and cons of the different differential options available for your jeep. Next time I will try to bring up to date info on the different choices available from various manufactures of both limited slip and full locking differentials and help you decide what options and features are available that fit into your own budget.
Differential Types (Part 2)
by: Marc Bowers
Last month I covered the basics of differential types and options available to the Jeep Cherokee owner. As promised this month's article will be focused on strength issues and different options for you in your quest to build your ideal Cherokee. As an aside I will also explain selectable lockers and their operation. Finally, I have created a list of the most popular Aftermarket differential units on the market. Included is information on difficulty of install and strength of the unit being presented. I must acknowledge that the manufacturers are in no way sponsoring this article and that some of the information shown here is based on friends who have used these different diffs over the years. I have also attempted to gather accurate information from the manufactures in regards to design and operation.
Selectable Lockers
Selectable lockers are the cake with the frosting too. The key to selectable lockers is the ability of the driver to control when the differentials are locked and unlocked. This means with a selectable locker installed in your vehicle it will drive normally on the road with a standard open differential, but gives you the ability to push a button and completely lock the unit when terrain dictates.
Currently the only selectable locker available for the Cherokee is produced by ARB in Australia. This unit is operated using compressed air to lock the axle side gears together when a locking switch is pressed giving maximum traction. Powertrax Corporation is developing a selectable locker for the Cherokee called the Command Locker, but as of yet it is unavailable.
The List
Prices are approximate.
Tractech E-Z Locker: $235.00
E-Z Locker is an inexpensive locker designed for occasional off-road use. Tractech doesn't recommend tires any larger than 32 inches be used with this locker. Installation is kept simple as this unit reuses the factory installed open differential carrier to house the locker. Installation can be accomplished at home in just a few hours with normal hand tools and nominal mechanical skills. Operation of the E-Z locker can be a bit harsh on dry pavement at low speeds. Banging sometimes occurs as the clutches lock and unlock. Off highway performance is very good with this locker.
Powertrax Lockright: $290.00
Lockright locking differentials are similar in design to the E-Z locker, utilizing the factory differential carrier to house the locker. Installation is very similar to the E-Z locker and requires only normal hand tools and mechanical skills. Powertrax does not offer any limitations on tire size with their unit and it is sold as a hard-core locking unit. Operation of the Lockright can be described as noisy at times with ratcheting and banging of clutch teeth quite noticeable. My experience with the Lockright is that the unit is extremely positive and therefore causes some driveability problems on the street. Off-road locking action is exceptional and trail manners impeccable.
Tractech Truetrac: $375.00
The Truetrac from Tractech is the exception to the rule of limited slip differentials using clutches. The Truetrac uses a unique gear system to limit slip when placed under a load. Long lasting and not prone to wear at high rates these diffs should last as long as the original factory parts. These units are very smooth and a good choice for installation in a front differential as they don't hamper steering ability as a locking diff can. The downfall of the Truetrac is the inability to completely lock. It is simply less positive and therefore doesn't offer as much traction as a full locking differential. This unit is excellent for people who occasionally travel off-road and would like additional traction without any noise or loss of driveability. Installation requires removal and replacement of the complete differential carrier unit and will need to be performed by a qualified technician with appropriate tools.
Tractech Detroit Soft-locker:$500.00
The Detroit locker has been THE heavy-duty locker used by four wheelers for many years. Using it's own differential carrier unit the Detroit locker is extremely strong and capable of withstanding severe off-road punishment. Installation requires a skilled technician with appropriate tools for "setting up" the differential. The Detroit is ideal for those individuals who like an automatic locker and demand total reliability. On road performance is similar to other lockers though may be a bit smoother and quieter than the Lockright and E-Z Locker.
ARB Air Locker: 650.00 + 185.00 for air compressor and install kit.
The ARB Air Locker is the ultimate locking differential. With it's ability to operate as a normal open differential and at the touch of a button to be a fully locked unit it suffers none of the pitfalls of automatic locking diffs. Installation requires the same skills and tools as with the Detroit Locker. Also needed with the Air Locker is the ARB air compressor used to operate the unit, adding to the initial cost. The ARB is designed to be extremely strong and reliable so breakage is unlikely with this unit. Cost is the single biggest downfall with the ARB as installation can add considerably to the total price.
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Domain: http://www.off-road.com
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Submitted by themajor on 01/16/06
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Differentiail Guide Break down
Break down of a differential piece by piece.
Axle Housing, Shaft Lock, Differential Cover, Shock Mounts, Side Bearings, Side Bearings Shims, Front Differential Case, Ring and Pinion, Pinion Bearing, Pinion Cup, Pinion Adjusting Shims, Pinion Bearing Cup, Pinion Bearing, Pinion Bearing Oil Seal, Pinion Yoke, Pinion Nut Domain: http://www.jjournal.net
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Submitted by kizer on 12/18/03
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Differential Fluid Change
Changing the gear oil in your differentials should be done every 12,000 miles or after a deep water crossing. This is a real easy job that every Jeeper should do themselves. Domain: http://www.4x4xplor.com
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Submitted by wayoflife on 10/11/03 Edited
09/29/04
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Differential fluid change
The axle/differential (diff) fluid is probably one of the most frequently abandoned fluids on vehicles. The diff fluid has to keep the ring gear, pinion gears, and axle bearings lubricated and cooled; trust me they get very hot while under load for long roadtrips. Over time the diff fluid (gear oil) breaks down and cannot bear the same forces like new oil can. I try to change my... Domain: http://www.getahelmet.com
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Submitted by imperialfleet on 05/27/04 Edited
12/14/05
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