Dana35 Drum to Disc Conversion
After installing bigger tires, gears, lockers and every conceivable piece of armor and I'm sure I'm missing some its been a big concern of mine to upgrade the brakes to something that will provide not only day to day braking, but also provide a means to stop in an emergency if the need arrives. My choices where pretty slim. I could of bought a Teraflex disc conversion kit, or a TSM disc brake conversion kit. However at the moment they are out of my budget because you are buying brand new right out of the box solutions. There is nothing wrong with a brand new setup however I couldn't stomach the idea of paying 500-600 for a conversion kit so I waited.
Out of the blue I kept seeing references to a 96 ZJ Grand Cherokee swap. I was even told it was a direct bolt on if your donor Jeep is a Dana35. I called around in my local area and I couldn't seem to track down a donor for my project. Again I gave up and decided to pursue other projects and its been 6months in the making. A buddy of mine
45 degree double flare in tubing
There are several types of flares used. Most automotive brake lines use a 45 degree double flare, otherwise know as an inverted flare. However more modern vehicles are made with bubble flares. Don't confuse these with AN flares which are a 37 degree single flare. Then there are pipe fittings, but that's another story.
A brake tube with a bubble flare is shown on the left in the first picture below, and a double flare is shown on the tube to the right in that picture. You can see how the double flare will fit into the female inverted flare fittings shown in the second picture.
Brake Shoe Adjustment
On an old Willys, the brake shoes must be manually adjusted to compensate for lining wear. If the clearance is too much, excessive pedal travel will be required before the shoes contact the drums. This can give the misleading impression of air in the lines. While not difficult, few people are familiar with the adjustment process anymore. Later models have only two upper adjustment points per wheel, but the CJ-2A and CJ-3A have two at the top and two at the bottom
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/11/04
Cheap extended YJ Brake lines
So you've added that suspension lift you've always wanted. Got those sway bar disconnects, too. Unbolted the track bar, huh? With all that extra suspension travel, you're stock brake lines are now are too short. Instead of using those cheap extension brackets that most lifts give you, here's a better idea. This one costs nothing to do and only takes a few minutes to accomplish.
Well, on the TJ and XJ, Chrysler extended the hard brake line down the side of the frame so it is closer to the brake caliper. On the YJ, they left the brake line. on top of the frame which really limits the brake line. length if you lift the suspension. So what is one to do? Well, how about copy what the Factory did on other Jeeps? Take a peak behind the frame and there will be a few plastic clips that hold the hard line in place. Carefully unclip the brake line. and let it hang for now. Now comes the messy part. You have to disconnect the rubber brake line from the hard line.
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Submitted by kizer on 04/13/04
CJ 11" Drum Swap
The factory 9" drum brakes that came on our beloved early Jeeps leave a lot to be desired. Stopping power is not one of their greatest attributes. Luckily enough, there is an easy way to improve the braking of the early Jeep. This method is known as the 11" drum brake swap and is probably the oldest and simplest way to improve braking on early Jeeps. Depending on how and where you get your parts, it can be very cheap as well.
Please note that this modification can be performed almost identically on any 1945-1971 Jeep CJ. Therefore, although the title is early CJ5 11" drum swap, this applies to all CJ's falling between these model years. Please also remember that even though this modification should greatly improve the braking performance of your Jeep, if done incorrectly, the results can be harmful to you and your Jeep's health. While it is a simple modification, a minor mistake with brake work can cause complete brake failure. Even the least technical person can understand that.
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 06/20/04
CJ Extended Brake Hoses
When installing a suspension lift, among other things, proper front brake line rubber hose length and routing must be adressed. Lifts under 4" may not need changes, but the suspension should be fully cycled to check. A ramp is good for this. Lifting one corner exaggerates the problem since the frame tends to rotate over the axles. One approach requires a bit more engineering, but offers good extension and protection of lines. The two front lines off the proportioning valve are combined into a brake tee to a rubber hose from a rear application. The hose goes to another tee mounted on the differential and steel line is then attached and run down each axle tube terminating with short rubber lines to the calipers.
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/26/04
CJ Hydro boost power brakes
Before I start, I need to say that your brake system is, without a doubt, one of the most important systems on your rig. If it is modified incorrectly and fails YOU COULD BE RESPONSIABLE FOR THE INJURY/DEATH of yourself, passingers(family) and everyone driving near you at that time. If you do not have a professional ability in this field, DON"&T EVEN ATTEMPT TO MODIFY YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM. Find a professional and pay them to do it right the frist time, its worth the money.
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Submitted by kizer on 10/25/03