AiROCK installation guides
The AiROCK installation guides below are available for both standard, (short) arm kits, and the Rubicon Express Long Arm kit. If you have a high speed connection you can download the one large file, or if on dial-up download the small files. Domain: http://www.offroadonly.com
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Submitted by kizer on 07/05/2004
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Align your jeep the cheap way
Installing a lift will screw up the toe-in, caster and steering wheel centering. You can adjust these fairly close to spec yourself. Here's how to make these adjustments yourself. Domain: http://www.cowtownjeeps.com
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Submitted by kizer on 10/15/2003 Edited
01/24/2004
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Bar Pin Eliminators
Ca-Clunk-k-k-k-k! Ca-Clunk-unk. Clunk-Clunk Clunk. What could it be? My control arms have been contorted beyond belief and the bushings are probably getting tired? The track bars have seen their fair share of abuse. Maybe the bushings are due there too? Or perhaps it's the exhaust rattling around on a broken or compromised hangar?
I must admit to being a procrastinator at times. There are some things that I will let go way past the time that any normal person would get down and poke around looking for the source of the problem, then deal with it. Not me. Anyway, I listened to a clunking for months but told myself it was one of the things listed above and just let it continue. I made some half-hearted attempts to track it down but all the stuff I checked was fine so I just let it go.
My trip to Maine was probably the last straw for the problem. My Dad, ever aware of noises that should not be heard, immediately picked up on the clunking. Domain: http://4x4icon.com
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Submitted by kizer on 03/23/2004
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Basic Front End Alignment
After installing a lift on your Jeep, it is important to have your front end aligned before you drive anywhere. Failure to do so will result in severe tire wear and/or death wobble. Although not perfect, these are a few things you can do yourself to set your toe-in and re-center your steering wheel. Domain: http://www.4x4xplor.com
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Submitted by wayoflife on 11/23/2003 Edited
12/29/2003
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BDS & M.O.R.E.
Lifting a 4 wheel vehicle is like feeding a baby, it has to happen if your baby'&s going to grow. When researching suspension lifts for my older CJ, I discovered that there are not a lot of choices. By that I mean, if you wanted a good lift, you went with one of only a few manufacturers. I chose Big Dick'&s Suspension (BDS). Their reputation and simple, no fine print warranty were a huge factor. One other decision I had to consider when doing my lift was, how high. A 4"& lift would have been great, but this is a 74 CJ. It sits on narrow axles and doesn'&t have the stance of the younger CJs. The 2 1/2"& BDS kit looked like the clear choice. I also wanted to install new shackles at the same time. Seemed like a logical thing to do. I chose Mountain Off-Road Enterprises (M.O.R.E.) lubeable shackles. Their simple, strong design made it an easy one. Domain: http://marz.org
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Submitted by kizer on 11/08/2003 Edited
11/23/2003
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Budget Boost your Grand Cherokee
There are several routes to take to lift your WJ and many of those routes are based on the type of trail riding you plan on doing as well as daily driving capability. Our project "D4" will be going through a few transformations, and starting it off will be the Skyjacker 2" BB Kit.
Domain: http://www.jeepspeak.com
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Submitted by JeepSpeak on 04/08/2005
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Centering your steering wheel
After a lift or alignment your steering wheel can be off. Im still not sure, but almost everytime Ive ever taken either one of my rigs to get the alignment done the steering wheel is always off center. The only way Ive ever been able to fix it is to do it myself. Its pretty easy and shouldn't really take you more than 5 minutes per attempt. I do say attempt because you really wont know if you corrected the problem is until you take it for a test run. Domain: http://www.links4jeeps.com
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Submitted by kizer on 06/26/2004
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Cherokee Sport Home Brew Budget Boost
I finally talked a friend of mine into adding a little lift to his stock 1998 Cherokee Sport. He told me that he just wanted 2" of lift and he wanted the ride to be better than stock. I told him about the Old Man Emu (OME) 2" kit, but it was way out of his price range. He told me to do what ever I had to but my budget was $350. More than enough for a 2" budget boost. But, being very impressed with the ride quality of the OME kit, I set out to put together my own kit. My challenge to myself was to put together a kit that had the ride quality similar to that of the OME kit, and to do it for as little money as possible. Over the period of 2 weeks, I came up with an idea and started gathering the parts. Domain: http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 01/04/2005
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CJ-2A Borgeson Intermediate Shaft Install
When I swapped a 4.3L Chevy V6 in to replace the 3.8L Buick V6, I had to rework the intermediate shaft. The Chevy engine mounts are in the middle where as the Buick mounts are in the front of the engine. The only way I could clear the engine mount was with a three u-joint intermediate shaft from Borgeson. Domain: http://www.4x4wire.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/28/2004
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CJ-2A Saginaw Power Steering Conversion
The Ross steering that is stock on a CJ-2A is basic manual steering. Because there are several moving parts in the linkage, it has a reputation for being loose. I wanted to convert my CJ-2A to Saginaw power steering. Since I was using a Commando frame that had power steering, I kept the stock cast bracket to attach the Saginaw steering box. The box was the easy part, the intermediate shaft, steering column, and linkage where tricky. Domain: http://www.4x4wire.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/28/2004
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CJ5: Saginaw Steering Conversion
The old Ross style steering box on early CJ has a reputation for being loose. It has 6 joints that all have a tendency to get loose over time and become sloppy. The original setup mounts the steering box behind the front axle and connects to the front wheels through four relay rods and two idler arms. Even if you’re not building an extreme Jeep, all of these connections make for plenty of slop in the steering. Add big tires and a lift and this magnifies the problem. Because of this I wanted to convert my CJ-5 to Saginaw power steering, before any lift was done on my CJ. Warning statement: This write up is a guideline and should not be attempted if you do not feel comfortable or have a basic knowledge of automobile steering systems. Serious injury or death could result; the author is in no way responsible for any outcome you may experience. Domain: http://www.4x4trailhunters.com
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Submitted by Code3TJ on 07/29/2004
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Currie AntiRock Front Swaybar
This is one mod that I have thought about for a while. I had weighed the pros and cons of always being connected and its affect on articulation. On the pro side, it is supposed to give you a more balanced vehicle on the trail and better control. The vehicle is not swaying all over the place on every rock. Several fellow AZVJC members already have them and have reported almost no loss in articulation and better handling on the trails so I finally decided to give it a try. 4 Wheelers Supply, here in Phoenix, gave me a great deal on the AntiRock and I immediately installed it so that I could test it on the ramp at our club BBQ that night. Installation took just over an hour. The instructions warn you in bold letters that the body roll will be increased on the road. After the install, I took it out to run some errands and noticed only a slight increase in body roll. I might try it on the next hole to soften it up for better articulation. Domain: http://homepage.mac.com
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Submitted by kizer on 11/16/2003
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Currie AntiRock Install
Installation of a Currie Antirock sway bar. Domain: http://www.stu-offroad.com
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Submitted by kizer on 11/14/2003
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Currie Front Trac Bar Install
This is one of the easier mods I've done. I installed a adjustable trac bar made by Currie. You will need a 9/16 drill bit and some basic hand tools. Removing the torx head bolt was easy to do. I soaked it with some PB Blaster the night before and using a good torx bit with a short bar over the rachet it broke free with one easy pull. After loosening the castle nut on the frame mounted side I added some heat using a propane torch and with a small hammer smacked the top of the castle nut, the trac bar fell right out. Next I drilled out the frame hole and installed frame mounted end of the trac bar. There is a small tapered cone that fits in the hole you drilled. Adjust to center the axle, bolt up the axle mount end and torque verythng down to specs. Domain: http://www.totalparadox.com
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Submitted by kizer on 12/15/2003
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