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Advance Adapter Slip Yoke Eliminator (AA SYE) install 00 TJ NP231 Download page 1 in a printable format

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Why do we lift our Jeeps? More than likely its for the same reasons. Jeeps where not bought to have tiny tires and wheels on them. After you lift a Jeep you raise the body higher off the wheel giving you more room to stuff bigger tires under the fenders not only for higher ground clearance, but as well the look they provide.

After you install your 3 or 4-inch lift or even larger you will notice when you accelerate and decelerate there is a slight vibration coming from your rear end. What is it? Its your driveline vibrating from the extreme angle you've put it in lifting your Jeep. You look at your driveline and it doesn't look to be very extreme. In your mind it isn't, but to your drivetrain anything over a couple degrees from the rear end to your transfercase is extreme.

There are a number of things you can do to correct this small but possibly damaging to your U-joints and other drivetrain sections. You can revert to stock, you can lower your transfercase with a few 1-inch spacers, you can install a bodylift/motor mount lift combination, however the only true and real effective way of correcting this problem is to install a SYE "Slip Yoke Eliminator" Stockers come with a slip yoke in the end of the t-case for the driveshaft to slip into. With bigger lifts, usually around 3" to 4" and higher, there is a bind. The SYE does 2 things, it replaces the end of the T-case with a fixed yoke (what the driveshaft attaches to) to allow for a longer driveshaft and allows the rear shaft to be removed without loosing fluid from the T-case. However not only will you have to purchase a SYE kit, but you will have to purchase a new longer driveline with a universal joint.

SYE was purchased from our friends over at, Dave gave me a great deal to get me started on this project as well I am matching the SYE with a driveline from him. Write-up by kizer, if you have any questions or comments about this install visit.

Tools: Other Items: Time:
8mm socket
10mm 12 point socket
10mm socket
14mm socket
14mm wrench
15mm socket
19mm socket
1/2 socket
1 1/8 inch socket
Regular screwdriver
Torque wrench capable of 150lbs
Rubber mallet
Inner and outer Heavy Duty snap ring pliers
Needle nose pliers
Jack stands and a floor Jack
Harmonic balancer puller or
Gear Puller
RTV gasket sealer
2 pints of Transfer Case fluid. Jeep recommended

Note: Either tool needs to have a range of at least 5+ inches to reach from the end of the stock shaft. If using the gear puller the jaw must open at least 6-inches.
Approximately 4 hours to remove
Approximately 4 hours to rebuild

Note: Time was based on tear down and rebuild. Photos and taking notes of each tool used during project. In a perfect environment it could be completed within 3-5 hours.

Everthing arrives completely wrapped in paper
Every piece you need
Using a pair of pliers to remove the metal banding holding the rubber boot in place on the driveline.
This is what the strap looks like unconnected
Just inside the harmonic balancer there is a second metal band you need to disconnect.
Using a 8mm socket loosen and remove the bolts on the rear driveline.
This is what the bolts and metal U bolts look like. There are two U bolts and 4 bolts securing the driveline to the differental.
Just another view
Use a rubber mallet on the driveline side. With a gentle tap you should be able to dislodge or in this case loosen the hold the U joints have in the yoke of the differental. Keep in mind you are not trying to forcefully loosen anything.
After you pull the driveline out of the yoke of the differential you should be able to simply pull the driveline towards the rear of the Jeep pulling it off the output shaft of the Transfercase
Above is what the existing shaft looks like.
I installed the U bolts and bolts back into the rear just for safe keeping.
Place a Jack stand under the bell housing of the transmission. You do not want to remove the skid plate without supporting the weight of the transfercase or transmission.
Backside of the transfercase. You can see the electrical connector. Using a small screw driver or an awl slide out the red key holding in the electrical connector.
Using a 1/2 socket remove the 4 nuts connecting the skid plate to the transmission and transfercase mount above the skid plate.
With all 4 nuts removed place a floor jack in the center of the transfercase skid with just enough upward force to hold it in place.
Remove 3 bolts on the drivers side as well as the passenger side with a 19mm socket.
After you have removed all 6 bolts lower the skid down with your floor jack. Now remove the skid plate and store in a safe place for later installation.
Disconnect the front driveline from the front of the transfercase. Instead of removeing the bolts from the front differentail you are going only remove the 4 bolts from the front of the transfercase.
Secure your front driveline to your frame if possible. Intially I used 2 sets of zip ties and later removed the zip ties and went with a more secure strap. You can remove the driveline completely if you feel more confortable by disconneting the 4 bolts off the front differental.
Prior to draining make sure you set the transfercase into 4Low. The instructions I used said to use 4Low, however the FSM for my Jeep said Neutral. Through out the entire procedure I used 4Low and found no reason to change it.

Drain the transfercase fluid into a container. This is the one tool I failed to note before putting it back up into the Jeep. It uses a hex key or Im sure a standard allen wrench will work. Keep in mind when you pull the plug you will see many little metalic hairs on the backside. That is completly normal. However chunks are not normal.
Make sure you disconnect the vent tube on the very top of the transfercase. Also on top of the transfercase on the upper drivers side you should find the 4wheel drive indicator sensor. It uses just a squeeze to remove it.
There are 6 14mm nuts to remove from the transfercase that mates it to the transmission. Currently this photo is looking from the drivers side to the passenger side. The nuts to remove from that bracket are a pain in the butt to remove. We used a combination of a 14mm socket and a wrench to remove them.

Just below the Yoke there is a lever that connects to the side of the transfercase. Using a 14mm wrench remove the linkage and store out of the way.
After removing the 6 nuts the transfercase should easily slide back from the transmission and lower down. There was two of us under the Jeep to catch it. My main man here placed it on his chest and pulled himself out. I do recall him saying man this is heavy and its impeeding my abilty to breathe. From that I understood it to be a bit heavy.
Back side of the transmission looking in. It was very dry and I did not find any type of lubricant.
With the weather being a bit cold we decided to install a shop rag to keep the inner shaft or surfaces from getting any moisture on them. Better safe than sorry.
Once the transfercase was removed it was ackward to carry, but not so heavy that a medium sized individual couldn't carry it without any special devices.

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