Front Stabilizer Install

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Front Stabilizer install

Everybody always says you have to change your front Stabilizer when you lift your Jeep. I decided to go against the norm and not install a new stabilizer when I did mine. Was it becasue I forgot? Well actually no. I wanted to see what the front end would do in response to the addition of 33-inch tires. At first when I lifted the TJ it felt fine until I drove it down a dirt road. The front end was loose and felt really sloppy. When I hit a hole it felt like the wheel wandered wildly from one side to the other.

Tools:	Time:
Needle nose plyers 3/4 wrench 11/16 wrench 18mm socket 15mm socket 6-inch extension Pitman arm Puller Hanmmer	30 minutes

First off I contacted Dave at Northridge4x4.com He had a deal on a front stabilizer I just couldn't pass up. I sware it felt like the next day and it was sitting on my door step waiting for me to trip over. Of course the wife was in totally amazement. "What did you order this time"? Dear its a front stabilizer. "It looks like a shock to me. How many wheels do you have?. Let me guess your going to show me how you can mount it on your spare. Hah, hah real funny" Of course I just admitted defeat and hit the garage.

After the install I must admit the front end seems a bit stiff and hard to move. Im guessing because the new stabilizer is doing what its supposed to do. Ive hit a few bumps and dips since the install and the steering wheel appears to take the hit and slowly moves back into place. On the freeway the wheel appears very steady and doesn't seem to vibrate in place. It almost appears like the steering wheel has its on shock. =) Writeup done by kizer Comments or questions visit

Using a pair of long needle nose plyers bend the cotter pin so you can easily remove it.	I used the needle nose plyers and pulled the cotter pin out quite easily.	Using a socket loosen the bottom retaining bolt from the draglink.
Place a long wrench on the back side of the draglink. Basically on the backside so when you turn the front it lodges into posistion	Using a socket with a 6-inch extension to get around the draglink. If you dont you will crack your nuckles a few times.	Pull the bolt out and this is what you will see.
Take a metal hammer and gently tap the front of the dampener. It will be snug, but after a few hits it will pop out. Keep in mind the metal is soft and you will not be able to reuse If your not the hammer type rent your self a pitman arm puller from autozone or a local parts store. They are pretty cheap and easy to use.	This is a side by side comparison of the new stabalizer. I really didn't notice much differences in them. I did notice the rubber bushings were alot larger, but other than that the canister seemed pretty close to the same size.	This is the end of the stabalizer. Notice how it all looks like one piece. The newer unit looks simular, but its assembled by you.
Slip in the new shaft into the bushing. I used a dab of dishwashing soap simply because it helped slip in and had that lemon scent. Other than washing dishes who knew it had such great uses. =)	Slide the shaft of the new stablizer into the open end of the stabalizer. Its pretty easy to figure out. Slide it in because the head rotates around.	This is what the assembly looks like completly put together.
Slide the short headed side down onto the drag link.	Tighting the lower bolt snug enough to hold the stud in place until you place your stabalizer into place.	Looking at the frame side take a small brush or remove any dirt or debris that maybe around the hole.
Slide the canister side of the stabalizer into the frame side and place the bolt into place to temporarly hold it in.	Slide the other side over the stud.	Insert the lock washer, large washer and nut onto the top of the stud. Use a wrench and tighten until the lock washer is flat. Tighten the bottom nut to 55lbs per the service manual for a 00 TJ.
Tighten the frame side nut and bolt to 55 foot pounds per the service manual for a 00 TJ.	After tightining I had a bit of a struggle getting the wrench and socket off the nut and bolt.	This is what it all looks like complete. I had a stock black stabalizer and now its a bright and shinny white one ready to get dirty.
Simpy differnet angles of the installed stabalizer