This is what the stocker looks like. How do people hit it so high
up? Beats me, but they do.
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First off loosen them lugs on your drivers side wheel and place
a jack stand under your axle supporting the wait. You do not need
to lift it up high. Just enough to get the wheel off the ground.
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Now with your wheel off inspect your Tie-rod end to make sure
the boot isn't torn in need of replacement. No since in messing
around with it if it needs replaced in the first place. |
As well with the passenger side. Inspect the boot for damage or
wear. |
This step isn't required, but I did it anyway. Take a piece of tape
and wrap your Tie-rod ends on the drivers as well as the passenger
side. I did it simply to insure when the Tie-rod is placed it takes
up equal space on both ends. |
Use a 13mm socket and wrench to loosen the Drivers side. |
Underneath on the passenger side use the same 13mm socket and wrench
to loosen. |
Now use your hand and twist the Tie-rod towards the back then towards
the front to loosen any debris on the threads. Now continue to twist
towards you or clockwise looking from the passenger side. The Tie-rod
will eventually loosen and fall off. |
This is a side by side comparison of the Big Daddy and the stocker.
I'll give you a hint. The stock rod is on the top. |
Same two rods. Dirty little guy is the stock rod. |
From the end they appear to be the same. Wrong. |
The stock rod uses a clamp and the Big Daddy uses a wrench end so
you can tighten. As well the kit comes with a Jacking bolt for both
ends to insure the Big Daddy doesn't spin and loosen. |
Install the jacking nut with the cuts on it on the drivers side.
Oddly enough it wouldn't go on the passenger side which lead me
to believe it was a left cut thread. |
Install the other jacking nut on the passenger side. |
On the Big Daddy Tie rod there is a machined ring cut into the end.
This end goes on the drivers side Tie-rod end. I figured this out
by reading the included instructions as well I test fit on the passenger
side and it wouldn't install. |
The instructions said to remove both Tie-rod ends and install on
the Big Daddy. Being lazy I just inserted both ends of the Tie-rod
on the existing Tie-rod ends and slowly tightened until they both
threaded on. Twist the Tie-rod towards the rear of the Jeep or counter
clockwise looking from the passenger side. |
Now notice in this picture the Jacking nut with the cut is on the
same side with the machined ring in the Tie-rod. They are both on
the drivers side. |
Continue to twist the Tie-rod towards the rear of the Jeep or counter
clockwise looking from the passenger side. |
Soon after what felt like a few minutes. My forearms burned a bit
and I finally hit the end of the Jacking bolts. What's not shown
in this photo is the masking tape. I removed the masking tape just
before. I used the masking tape to insure the Tie-rod was in equal
length on the drivers side as well as the passenger. |
Now when you feel your Tie-rod is in the proper location tighten
down both Jacking nuts against the Tie-rod. The great thing about
the Big Daddy Tie-rod is the Wrench ends so you can get a large
wrench, crescent wrench or a pair of channel locks on them. |
Another shot of the stocker just under the new Tie-rod |
A few installed photos |
Come on hit me I dare you. |
Man that is just way to clean. |
Passenger side looking towards Drivers. |
Drivers looking towards passenger |
After
a lift and a front Stabilizer install I come to the conclusion my Tie-rod looks
so wussy under the bumper its not even funny. Ok, its more than looking wussy
its a matter of supporting an upgrade such as tires and a lift. Lets face it.
When your banging around on a trail and you hit a rock. Do you want your front
wheels to buckle or do you want to keep on moving? I want to keep on moving
myself.
