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Sway Bar Quick Disconnect Tether
Every time I disconnect my sway bar links I worry about loosing them. Maybe Im just a bit careless or maybe its the worry about driving home on a long run to and from where I disconnect that worries me. Im getting ready to take a run roughly 500 miles away from home and Im sure if given the chance to loose one I will.

As well Ive had somebody at work pull my pins and then just as I walk out to my Jeep they warn me and attempt to pull a bit of black mail to get me to do something before I head out. Fear, anger and the urge to pound on something went through my head. Whats to keep somebody from doing the samething as a joke or even worse to cause harm. Well nothing sort of removing the disconnects is going to stop that, but the ability to make sure the pins do not leave you vehicle is what you can.

Nobody on the market seems to make a system to hold your pins onto your sway bar quick disconnect links so I decided to make some of my own. They will stay on your disconnects from the connected point to disconnected and stowed.

Tools: Parts Time:
Pair of pliers
Dikes
1/16 inch cable
4 1/16 inch crimps
30 Minutes

Writeup by kizer and if you have any questions or comments about this install visit

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Starting off with aproximately 12 to 14 inches of 1/16 inch cable and 4 1/16 inch crimps I picked up from a local hardware store.
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Im running RE Generation 2 disconnects. My disconnects are a ring with a pull pin. Some disconnects have a simple hair pin. This same project could be done on the hair pin however there is nothing that will prevent the hair pin from falling out unless you tighten the cable.
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This is what a crimp looks like. Its basically a light weight piece of alluminum that has a figure "8" cut into it.
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Slide the cable straight through the crimp.
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Slide the cable through your disconnect.
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Push the cable back through the other remaining hole in the crimp.
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Prior to crimping with a pair of pliers I adjusted the cable through the crimp to make sure I had aproximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch of loop around my disconnect. Also I left aproximately just shy of 1/4 inch of slack on the outside of the crimp which can always be trimmed later with a cutter or a drimel.
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Slide the other crimp onto the cable towards the disconnect.
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Wrap the cable around your disconnect and slide the remaining end into the already installed crimp.
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Attempt to disconnect your pin a few times and make sure there is enough slack in the cable wrapped around the disconnect. You do not want much slack, just enough to remove and connect.
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Tighten if neccessary buy sliding the crimp up towards the disconnect. I left roughly an inch of distance between each crimp so there wasn't much length in the total project. I only wanted enough length to pull the pin and re-install the pin. I didn't want to have a piece of cable dangling or getting caught up in the spring or shocks during normal street operation.
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Out of curiousity I decided to use a brown marker, which I would of used black if I had it to measure how much cable I was using.
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My curiousity paid off. I had plenty of cable for the second tether. Make sure when you measure you length you measure from end to end and include the loop in the end. I needed just shy of 7-inches to build my second tether.
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I reinstalled the cable and crimp and pulled it just the way I wanted it.
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I couldn't get the grip I wanted on a pair of dikes so I used a pair of channel locks to squeeze the little crimps to gether.
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Now with everything crimped there is only one thing left to do.
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Take the dikes and cut off the uneeded amount. Again I left between 1/4 to 1/2 in lengh so I could trim it later if needed.
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Pin pulls and links disconnect smoothly. I even yanked and tugged on the pin to see if any of my crimps where loose.
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Finished product on the passenger side. Repeat the same process on the Drivers side.

After each side I took my hand held drimel and I cut the remaining slack just below 1/4 inch so I wouldn't poke or cut my hands. Im thinking of taking some heat shrink tape and covering the cable and ends so they are black, but so far the silver on silver looks pretty good. =)
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This is what one end looked like after I fought with cutting it the first time. If you use a sharp pair of dikes you will have a nice smooth edge. If you do not you can twist the cable with the swirl and it will tighten up so you can feed it through the crimps. If it doesn't trim off just enough so it leaves a sharp edge and continue on.