RE Generation2 Quick Disconnects

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Rubicon Express Generation 2 Disconnects

Im just like the rest of you. When I hit the trail I want to take complete advantage of my new modified suspension. The only thing I could never stand was how hard it was to pull the disconnects on my older setup.

I was browsing around and came across Rubicon Expresses Generation 2 system. Swissmountain4x4 said they were a very new setup and to his knowledge nobody has installed them or done a install/writeup. With that in mind I was definately going to purchase and be the first.

My intial lookover of the kit I was very impressed. All of the parts appeared to be very well put together. Upon further inspection I noticed 2 very inportant points. The connecting section to the factory sway bar utilizes a Hiem Joint. The section that attaches to the axle uses a thick rubber bushing, which requires no greasing. How cool is that? One less piece to grease

Tools:	Tools: Optional	Time:
19mm socket 17mm socket 16mm socket 19mm wrench 2 drivers for above sockets 19mm wrench or 3/4 wrench 8mm hex bit Thread Lock aka Lock Tight	Big hammer if removing stock sway bar links Pickle fork if removing stock sway bar links	30-45 minutes

The optional tools called out above are to remove the stock factory sway bar links. They are rather dificult without the optional tools.

Now below everything done was referenced from the drivers side. I like to take pictures and note things from one side to keep it simple and not to loose my intended audience. Plus once you do one side its the exact samething on the other. As well I removed the drivers side tire simply for taking pictures. You do not have to remove the tire to do this. I did not install the upper pins used for storage as of yet. I will when I get a feel for the length of the disconnects and when I have a few minutes. Written by kizer and if you have any questions or comments about this install visit

All the parts arrived in a box which is about the size of a can of tennis balls.

Everything is bagged to keep it simple. The only pieces that are not bagged are the sway bar links themselves

This is a side shot of the sway bar and the sway bar link. I currently have a removeable Teraflex disconnect.

This is a front shot of the same system.

If you have an aftermarket disconnect or your stock sway bar link. You would use a socket and or wrench to loosen the lower sway bar link.

Now with your stock swaybar or after market loose.

Now use a wrench or socket and remove the top nut. If you have a stock swaybar you would now take the pickle fork and slide it inbetween the sway bar and link and stike it with a hammer.

This case I have an after market swaybar. Im using a pair of channel locks to keep the lower section from twisting.

As you can tell above the Teraflex sway bar link uses a rather large rubber bushing, that requires greasing often.

This red block of aluminum is used to connect the top sway bar link to the sway bar. Ive preassyembled it with two washers, bolt and a nylock nut.

Notice how the block is oddly shapped. It is shapped like this on purpose to fit the stock sway bar.

The block is placed underneth the sway bar with the hole facing away from the Jeep. Using a 17mm socket along with a 16mm socket tighten down until snug.

Fronm the side this is how the red block looks

This is what the block looks like from underneth the sway bar link. The only way to get this view is to swing the sway bar completely down to see below.

Take the lower bolt and connection point with a lock washer and regular washer and place a generous amount of thread lock on the threads. Notice how the threads point into/under the Jeep.

Thread on the lower connection point.

Using the 19mm socket tighten the lower sway bar link connection point. I found using a small, but disposable screw driver inserted into the clevis pin hole to steady the shaft and keep it from turing.

Take the Hiem joint end. Slide on the supplied spacers and apply thread lock onto the threaded hex bit bolt.

Insert the treaded hex bolt into the already installed red upper mounting block connected to the stock sway bar. Remember the hole should be on the outside pointing away from the Jeep.

Use a hex bit to tighten.

I leveled out my sway bar and connected the passenger and driver side sway bar links to make sure they where exactly the same length.

Now using two 19mm wrenches or a 3/4 wrench along with a 19mm wrench. Tighten the jacking nut towards the Hiem joint. With the nut tightened the length is fixed until you diecide to disconnect and twist the shaft.

This is the lower section connected. I personally didn't like the gap in between the provided pin and the outer edge of the sway bar link bushing. I inserted a thin washer to take up the gap and insure a more snug fit.

This is a close up of the upper connection point. Did I mention I really like the Hiem Joint?

The sway bar disconnects rather simply and moves towards the Jeep really easily.

The disconnected sway bar link moves away from the Jeep just as easily.

Looking from underneth the Jeep towards the Drivers side.

Looking directly at the completed sway bar link system.

Looking from the outside towards the sway bar link system.