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Teraflex Bushing upgrade

After a while of owning my Teraflex lift I noticed it became a bit clunky. I know thats not really a discription, but after checking everything once, twice and even 3 times I became so frustrated I just knew it had to be my control arms. Ive read several forums and everybody who talked about the Teraflex control arms came up with the same response. The bushings are horrid and need to be replaced often.

I decided I had to replace them as well. The only problem I kept bringing myself to was the fact I simply did not want to change them out next year or the year afterwards. There simply had to be solution more permanent than changing them out on a regular basis if that was the solution. So bushings being what I needed I just happened to be looking around on a sponsor of Links4jeeps and they carried the Daystar line. Daystar just happens to make Poly bushing replacements for Teraflex control arms. How difficult could it possibly be I asked myself? 3 Days later I had two orders of bushings at my front door. I would like to thank Inclined-Vehicles for jumping on a request so fast. As well I would like to thank all of the sponsors on board for the many inquires and offers to lend a hand.

Tools: Tools:
Screw Driver
Various sockets to remove control arms
10-15 minutes per control arm

From what Ive been told this will only work on the lower control arms. I personally think you might be able to change out the frame side upper control arms in the front and possibly both ends in the rear. Im going to inquire and possibly pickup some more bushings to complete the rear. If you have any questions or comments about this install visit

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8 Bushings come per box. I requested 2 sets so I could do both fronts and both rears. It takes 4 total bushings to do a single arm. 2 on each side of each end.
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I used a socket and a wrench to loosen each end of a lower control arm.
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When I pulled the control arm off the steel sleve literaly fell out. Talk about making you wonder why its been going clunk, clunk and clunk.
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From this picture you can see there is a nice little gap in the bushing between the sleeve and the control arm.
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So much of a gap I could easily slide in a screw driver with no effort what so ever.
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The stock rubber bushing is on the right and the new Poly bushing from Daystar on the left.
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The front arm bushing was so loose I simply twisted it off like it was a lid on a jar.
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I grabbed it and pulled it right out with no effort what so ever.
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With the bushing out you can see its warped just a bit especially at the 11'oclock position.
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One thing I thought was odd, but I guess it has its reasons was the little groves on the side of the bushing. I have no idea why it has the groves, but looking at the bushing it would appear to weaken the walls of the bushing making it an obvious future failure.
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The replacement bushing is a bit shorter than the stock bushing. Seeing that all the twisting of the steel insert will happen on the end I didn't think it would make a difference and if it does I will reinstall the stock bushings.
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This is a good look on how the bushings look standing inside of each control arm end. Understand why it takes 2 bushings per end now? Also look the height difference. Its roughly 1-inch shorter overall.
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When I got to another arm it was a bit stiffer so I inserted a 1 1/8th socket head and it pushed right out.
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On another arm I used the old fashion screw driver trick.
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See inside the control arm? There is a crack where the two stock bushings push up against each other.
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Place a regular screw driver in between the bushings and give the screw driver a little nudge and the bushing will fall right out.
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In order to make the steel insert slide into the bushing I sprayed on some WD-40 and pushed it right on.
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Slide the bushing with the insert in place and then apply the second side.
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Before I discovered the WD-40 trick I used my handy vice to press in the sleeve.
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Bushings in place and ready to be used.
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Looking at this control arm, tell me there is a gap or it looks like it my give under use.