Remove the left and right seat catch brackets located on the sidewalls
using a T-40 torx bit. Save one of the torx bolts from each for
reuse. |
Remove the seat belt buckles bolted to the floor using a T-50 Torx
bit. You may dispose of the bolt, but I reused to fill the hole. |
Remove the shoulder harness bolts located on the sidewalls Also
with a T-50 torx bit. Keep the seatbelt harness together with the
bolt for reuse. |
Install the new rear right and left brackets to the same mounting
holes as the original with a T-40 torx bit. You will only use one
small torx bolt from the original two per side. Also install the
shoulder strap bolt using a T-50 torx bit |
This is a top view down. Notice how the top hooks appear to point
backwards. That's because they do. =) |
This is both rear brackets installed. |
Using a pair of needle nose pliers remove the plastic bushings from
the original seat mounting brackets. |
Insert the new front bracket in the old hole where the plastic bushing
used to be. You can hand tighten the nylon nut. |
Remove the front bolt close to the front of your Jeep closes to
the front seats with a 13mm socket. Place the new bracket on top
of the old bracket and insert the old bolt. You will then tighten
while hand adjusting to insure the bracket is flat and square with
the old original bracket. |
Throw your seat back in your Jeep because its time to do some test
fitting. The instructions say to install your seat into the new
mounting brackets just like your seat used to fit into your old
bracket. The nylon nuts then should be tightened making sure your
seat. For some reason it wanted you to leave the floor bolts loose
and then tighten them with the seat in place. I was confused so
I did it my way. |
Remove the two rubber stoppers on the bottom of the seat using a
Phillips screw driver. |
Getting close to installing the box. Looking at the latch on the
under drawer box it appears to be just like my Tuffy glove box.
While
working with the drawer. This was also the source of scratching
the heck out of my fore arms reaching in. My wife asked me how
many cats I fought with in the garage. I told her 6. =)
|
Two remove the drawer there are two pins on each side. They look
like little flaps shown in the center of this picture. On one side
of the drawer you push down and on the other side you push up. It
comes out rather simply when you try it a few times. |
The instructions don't mention it, but you will need to punch a
small hole in your carpet to attach the bottom of the box to your
front mounting brackets currently supporting your hinge point for
your seat. |
I carefully measured and punched though like so showing the rear
bolt hole. |
After several attempts using a bolt I've come to the conclusion
that I was just going to notch a small piece of carpet out of each
side instead of trying to fight the screw through the carpet and
the bottom of the box. |
After placing the box on the mounting brackets this is what it
looks like inside of the box. Keep in mind the hole your going
to be trying to feed is on the other side of the drawer slide
rails located way up front, which of course my camera couldn't
see no matter what angle I tried.
When
you go to put your box into the brackets you will notice there
are two bolts on the rear bracket studs. Do not remove them. They
act as jacking nuts to elevate your box and drawer so it slides
at an upward angle keeping you front hitting your little tie down
points and the bottom of your rear door.
|
The kit was supposed to come with (2) 8 x 40mm bolts, but after
tearing my packing materials apart it was very obvious that something
was misplaced. I visited my local hardware store and tried to install
them using a universal joint like the instructions said, but again
it was obvious it was not going to work like tuffy instructed. So
I picked up some machine screws 8 x 30mm with an Allen head and
of course torx bit T-40 with a 1/4 extension to the rescue. |
The machine screw head is really narrow, so narrow the lock washers
where bigger. |
This is how I installed the screws through a hole in the top of
the box, which never appeared to serve any purpose, but to help
me complete my nightmarish task. |
Here you see the end of the extension on the other side of the drawer
rail, which after fighting for an hour with a universal was completed
in seconds with a torx and a Allen head machine screw. |
After installing the front bolts it was time for the rear. Use a
screw driver and slide in two washers between the rear bracket and
the drawer box. I used the screw driver because after fishing for
the washers 3 or 4 times It got really old taking front screws off
just to get under the box. |
Slide in the bolt with a washer and the final washer with nylon
nut. Use a 16mm socket and a 5/8 wrench to tighten. |
Install the seat belt buckles to the outside of the box on the top
through the angle iron. The instructions show the buckles attached
on the other side of the angle iron, but no matter what I tried
the holes would not match up. Go figure. Miss print or year change. |
This is what it looks like from the rear. |
Using a 13mm deep socket tighten the two remaining nylon nuts just
inside the opening of the box. Remember them nuts. |
Over the course of taking the box off 5 or 6 times I decided to
replace the torx bolt holding down the original seat belt buckle.
I didn't like the open hole look. |
All said and done. It took some head scratching, but its worth the
effort. Now I have room for my jumper cables, spare clothes, flash
light, rain coat and whatever else I can squeeze into a 3.5 x 17
inch drawer. |
