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York Gasket and O-Ring Replacement Click here for PDF
 


Apply a generous coat of 10w-30 on both sides of crankcase gasket, its the paper/fabric one. After you get it moist rub it in so it penetrates the gasket some.

The Crankcase Gasket goes on and make sure you line up the dowel pin holes.

To make it easy pull the dowel pins out of the valve plate.

Insert the dowel pins into the Crank Case to make sure your crank case gasket is lined up and it makes each piece there after slide on easier.

Make sure the surfaces on both sides of the Valve Plate are clean and free of any debris. I used a dry lint free cloth and lightly cleaned it prior to placing it on top of the Crank case and gasket.

You can tell you have the Valve Plate on properly because the side with the nuts are on top.

Apply a thin layer of 10w-30 oil on the convex side of the Valve Plate gasket. You can tell which side the convex side is, its the side that has the dip in it.

Place the Valve Plate gasket on top of the Valve Plate with the lip side up. Give the top side a thin bead of 10w-30. It will only go on one way if you have the lip side up and use the dowel.

Here's the Cylinder Head, Valve Plate and the Crank Case with its gaskets installed.

Thread in all of the Cylinder head bolts and hand tighten them down. DO NOT torque them down with a ratchet.

Using this diagram torque the Cylinder Head bolts down to 17-25flbs. I started at 10lbs following the order then retorqued again to 20flbs.

I skipped 1, 2, 11 and 22 since I do not have the flange bolts installed yet. If you have the Rotoheads you would skip all together.

Looking at the bottom of the compressor. Using a 3/8ths socket remove all 14 bolts.

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